So farewell, Fiji. My week on the islands was definitely the most challenging of the whole trip; involving everything from tribal ceremonies to impromptu drinks with millionaire hotel owners and unexpected glass-blowing. The itinerary was crazy, but the last three days on classic Robinson Crusoe-esque islands did give me some to reflect on the whole 'fantasy' tropical island holiday.
Before I go on, I should say that in my opinion, for a classic palm-trees-in-the-breeze, paradise-isle holiday, Fiji knocks it out of the park. Compared to the Maldives/Mauritius these islands really have that castaway feel
(not least because the island where Tom Hanks filmed Castaway is one of them). But one of the things this blog is for is to write honestly about things, and I do feel that this kind of holiday is something people spend thousands and thousands on, and sometimes end up disappointed. So here's a few things to consider, based on my experiences in Mauritius, the Maldives and now Fiji, that travel agents and tour operators (and, sadly, often travel features) may fail to mention.
First, the weather. I've lost count of the people I know who have been on tropical island holidays and had bad weather. Sun isn't guaranteed.
I was in Fiji during the rainy season, so grey skies were to be expected - but when I went to the Maldives, several years ago (supposedly in the 'dry' season), it rained all week. Weather patterns are changing everywhere and there are no guarantees; if you get a week of unbroken sunshine, anywhere, you're lucky.
Secondly, getting there. Unless you're seriously loaded and can afford a seaplane or helicopter, you'll invariably go by boat. These crossings can be pretty bloody scary; in Fiji the weather was kind and my half-hour zip across from one island to another was relatively smooth (while still being quite bouncy).
But in the Maldives, as we sailed towards hulking black clouds, I genuinely thought I was going to drown. Choppy conditions are not uncommon.
Thirdly, wildlife. If you come in the wet season, as I did, its a bit of a mosquito-fest. But all tropical islands are home to all manner of creatures; gekkos skittered across my floor, a crab was waiting on my doorstep one night, a frog the night before There are bats in the trees and mongoose in the bushes. The great thing in Fiji is there are no snakes and nothing poisonous. But if you're not a wildlife fan, it can be an issue.
Fourthly, other people. At Likuliku I went to have a sunset beer at the over-water bar.
I was by myself, so it didn't matter, but there was a gang of about eight Americans being really loud and shouty (and this is supposed to be a quiet, couples-only resort). If I'd been trying to have a Romantic Moment, it would have spoilt it entirely. Island resorts are often small, so you do trip over the same people all the time.
Fifth, it's all done for you. Obviously a lot of people like this. But if you're the sort that likes to go yomping off exploring, or discovering a place for yourself, it's virtually impossible. Fiji has an incredibly vibrant indigenous culture, and many resorts run trips to local villages, schools etc. But they are tour group excursions - difficult to explore on your own.
Sixth, the sea. It's all about the beaches, right?
Yet quite often the beaches aren't really swimmable. In the Seychelles strong currents make some beaches unsafe for swimming. In Fiji/the Maldives its often simply too shallow, particularly when the tide goes out. If swimming/snorkelling in the sea is a big thing, choose your resort carefully.
If this all sounds overly negative, set it against the fact these islands are idyllically beautiful, utterly peaceful and have crystalline seas and all the swishing palms you could wish for. What you don't get - and what is so often sold - is perfection. Fiji was full of character and tradition, and so different
that it seems almost dreamlike now, thousands of miles away in the familiar hustle and bustle of a first world city. Santa Monica beach was drenched in sunshine this morning, perfect for an alfresco breakfast, but I missed the otherness of Fiji; the ladies with hibiscus flowers in their hair, how everyone beamed and said 'bula' all the time, the beautiful harmonic singing. Expect different on a tropical island holiday and you won't be disappointed. Expect perfection...and you just might be.
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